Standing Rigging, Blocks and Tackle, Sheets and Halyards

Material List

Two lowers
80 ft 5/16 stainless steel wire
2 ea 5/8 inch turnbuckles
4 ea 5/8 inch toggles
4 Hayn 5/8 Hi mod terminals

Two Cap Shrouds
100 ft 1/4 inch stainless wire
2 ea 1/2 inch turnbuckles
4 ea 1/2 inch hi mod Hayn terminals
2 ea 1/2 inch double jaw toggles (at top)

Fore Stay
50 ft. 5/16 inch stainless wire
1 ea 5/8 inch turnbuckle (top)
1 ea 5/8 inch jaw to jaw toggle
2 ea 5/8 inch hi mod terminals

Bow Sprit Shrouds
40 feet 5/16 inch stainless wire
2 ea 5/8 in turnbuckles
4 ea 5/8 inch toggles
4 Hayn 5/8 Hi mod terminals

Back Stays
80 feet 9 mm Dyneema
½ inch jaw to eye toggle
2 ea Colligo chain plate distributor ½ inch
Lashing x 2
2 ea ½ inch Colligo line terminators

Running Back Stay Tackle (4 to 1 )
1 ea 3.5 inch double block with fork connector
1 ea 3.5 inch single block with becket
1 each Colligo static block 
2 ea ½ inch eye to jaw toggle
2 ea Diamond Deck chainplate w ½ inch eye for clevis pin
120 ft 3/8 inch Novabraid
2 web strops with D rings
2 tufnol snatch blocks

Head Stay
60 ft 9 mm Dyneema with leathered loop
1 ea ½ inch Colligo line terminator
Lashing
1 ea ½ inch chainplate distributor
eye to jaw toggle ½ inch


Spinnaker Halyard and Block
Ording 3.5 inch strop (long) block on thimble
1 ea Colligo soft eye shackle
Leathered loop around mast
100 feet 3/8 inch Novabraid belayed to pin rail

Jib Halyard (dinghy hoist)
150 feet 7/16 inch “Vectran V-100 braid ”
1 ea 4 inch block with an upset shackle connector. (on top band)
1 ea 4 inch block with snap shakle ( on sail, load)
2 eye jaw toggles (one on each collar to allow p&and movement)
Colligo C-5 Furler with stainless swivel
Thimble and shackle (for dead end of line to lower band)

Peak Halyard
160 feet of 7/16 inch Novabraid
2 ea 4 inch blocks with front shackle connectors
1 ea 4 inch block on spanhook connector
Gaff span ¼ inch wire thimballed to grommet

Throat Halyard
120 feet of 7/16 inch Novabraid
1 ea 4 inch single block with a becket on a fork (lower block)
1 ea 4 inch double block with a fork or eye connector (hang from crane)
2 ea jaw to eye toggles ( just in case)

Top Sail Halyard
120 feet of 3/8 (sheave size?) inch Vectran V-100 Braid
Bronze snap shackle spliced on

Stay Sail Halyard (Dinghy Hoist)
60 feet of 7/16 inch Novabraid
1 ea 4 inch strop block
1 ea bronze snap shackle

Main Sheet
106 feet of 7/16 inch New England Regatta Braid
2 swivel deck plate singles with cam cleats
1 non-rotating deck plate single
1 ea double block w/ eye connector

Jib Sheets
125, 100, 100 and 100 ft sheets 7/16 Novabraid
2 deck bulls eyes or 2 snatch blocks on web strop with D ring


Stay Sail Sheets
106 feet 7/16 Novabraid
2 ea 4 inch blocks on rail

Top Sail Sheet
1 ea Bronze Block
60 ft 3/8 inch Novabraid

Bowsprit Traveller
40 ft 3/8 inch Novabraid
Bronze block on cranes iron

Topping Lifts
70 ft. 9 mm Dyneema
2 ea Colligo 11 to 13mm static single blocks on multiplied strops attached to eye bolts.
2 ea line terminators

Topping lift tackle
2 ea fiddle blocks with fork and becket (Top one pinned to line terminator)
100 feet 7/16 inch Novabraid falling from top to pin rail at bulwarks
2 ea fiddle blocks with fork connector to toggle
2 ea soft eye shackles ( to shroud to keep block from swinging )
2 eye jaw toggles (one on each chain plate)

Sail luffs
Working jib, Yankee, Storm and Drifter 200 ft of Dyneema

Life Lines
2 Colligo life line kits with gates but use 9mm instead of 5mm

Totals by Vendor

Ording Blocks, Unfinished Teak
2 ea 3.5 inch fiddle blocks with fork connector
2 ea 3.5 inch fiddle blocks with cam cleats with ½ fork connector
1 ea 3.5 inch strop (long) block on thimble
1 ea 4 inch block with an upset shackle connector (on top band)
1 ea 4 inch block with snap shackle ( on sail, load)
2 ea 4 inch blocks with front shackle connectors
1 ea 4 inch block on spanhook connector
1 ea 4 inch single block with a becket on a fork (lower block)
1 ea 4 inch double block with a fork or eye connector (hang from crane)
1 ea 4 inch strop block
2 swivel deck plate singles with cam cleats
1 non-rotating deck plate single
1 ea double block w/ eye connector
2 ea 4 inch blocks on rail
2 ea fiddle blocks with fork and becket (Top one pinned to line terminator)
2 ea fiddle blocks with fork connector to toggle
230 ft 5/16 inch stainless wire

Hayn
5 ea 5/8 inch turnbuckle
8 eye to jaw 5/8 inch toggles
1 jaw to jaw 5/8 inch toggle
10 ea 5/16 inch hi mod terminals
2 ea ½ inch turnbuckles
4 ea 1/4 inch hi mod Hayn terminals
2 ea 1/2 inch double jaw toggles
12 ea ½ inch eye to jaw toggles

Novabraid
340 ft of 3/8 inch Novabraid XLE
975 ft of 7/16 inch Novabraid

New England
106 ft7/ 16 inch Regatta braids
120 ft of 3/8 inch Vectran V-100 Braid
150 ft 7/16 inch Vectran V-100 Braid
Lashing line

Colligo
3 ea ½ inch chain plate distributors
5 ea ½ inch line terminators
C-5 Furler with swivel
510 ft 9mm Dyneema includes sail luffs and lifelines
6 soft eye shackles
2 11-13 mm static blocks

Misc
5 ea bronze snap shackle
2 deck mount bulls eyes
2 diamond deck chain plates
4 web strops with D rings

Bowsprit Installed

Captain Connor

Need to add 1/4 inch half round each side of gammon iron.

Anchor rollers attached at stem and main deck

From headstay to forestay is 8 ft 8 inches.

As at December 8th 2010

Chart table, freezer left, refrigerator right, instrument panel framed for pc monitor. AIS and VHF.

 

On port side of sail locker one gallon fresh flush tank, holding tank and water maker pre-filters.

Bowsprit and main deck in way of sprit heel and sampson post.

 

Anchor Rollers

 The roller assembly I first bought was designed for a reefable bowsprit. Too big and too heavy.  I cut a 6 inch piece off the tail to bolt to the bow.

The plate will extend outboard to capture each roller. The slots in each roller cheek engages the  plate thereby fixing the angle so the Rocna anchor will ride below the bow sprit. The tail end of each PTF roller had to be trimmed to match up with the angle of the bow and the cover board was planed down so the gammon iron position did not change. 

The anchor roller bails would be fine for an all chain rode but the sharp edges will chafe through anything else.

Gammon iron and rollers.

Plate through bolted to bow. 

The rollers dry fitted on plate.



Sprit heel through bolts deck and stainless steel backing plate.

Picture Time

Bowsprit goes from 5" x 5" square to 3 3/4" round.  The cranse iron end still has to be planed back 6 inches.

First coat bottom paint.

 Beta 24 hp

AC and DC panel

Adverc voltage regulator

 Port side under cockpit...water tank vent lines, bilge lines heading aft and pot water lines.

 Port side lockers above settee.

 Looking forward into head compartment.

 Electrical panels.

Head compartment then into sail locker and then into anchor locker.

 Echo water maker in head compartment

 Sail locker with water maker pre-filter bank.

Same as above.

Fore Deck

Just aft of  the stem a bronze plate is attached to the bow with 6 ea. 1/2 inch machine screws.  The sampson post / sprit heal will be shimed and faired so the bowsprit will set at the correct angle.

The new Muir windlass will install a foot further forward than the ABI manual footprint.

The gamon iron is not installed.  The anchor roller cheeks are slotted to fit on the plate fixing the angle so both anchors look down but stow without touching the hull.

Rollers and gammon iron.

Bowsprit heal installed on butt end.   Dimensions are 5 inch by 5 inch to just past rollers then 4 7/8 inch diameter tapering to 3 3/4.  The length is 12 ft 10 in overall; 8 ft 10 inches from forestay on gammon iron bail to headstay at cranze iron.

Current Photos

Engine install almost done.

Raw water strainer, the thru hull has not been installed yet.  Racor fuel filter and remote oil filter.

There are 5 ea. 1.5 inch hoses on the port side of prop shaft, two are water tank fill lines that head forward under the engine. The other three are bilge discharge lines.  The manual whale gusher and the Rule 2000 submersible dive straight down to the bottom of bilge.  The big high water Rule 3700 discharge hose makes it way forward under the engine to the bilge area between the two water tanks.

The Vetus dual chamber wet muffler is well below the exhaust gooseneck under the shaft.  By design it splits into two pieces so you could actually get it out without pulling the shaft if you had to.

Engine battery will live in box below companionway ladder.

AC and DC panel, battery selector switches,  galvanic isolator indiator light panel, AC outlet, primary and secondary bilge pump switches and engine start panel.

Port quarter berth.

 Aft end of starboard pilot berth with Mastervolt 2000/100 inverter charger under.

Galley.

Air con vent over galley.  Three small drawers north of chart table.

Sails and Mast Furniture

Previous entries describe Rose's sail plan and the standing and running rigging configuration. The design of  each has changed, not dramatically, but enough to warrant an update. These modifications will insure that tackle runs free and leads are fair.

The staysail will hank to the forestay and the halyard will be rove to a single block. With a sway hook on deck there should be no need for more than one block. The free flying jibsails, yankee and genoa, will set on a bowsprit traveller and a Colligo luff line furler. The Colligo furler has its own  two part purchase block on the upper swivel. However, a two part purchase won't provide enough power to get 1200 lbs of tension on the jib luff. A properly sized self-tailing winch will be mounted on the port side of the mast to supplement the 2 to 1 purchase.

I will only have two jibs in my sail inventory, a yankee and a full working jib (110 genoa).  The staysail will have one reef point.   The main, staysail, genoa and yankee will be made from 7 oz clipper cloth. The two jibs will be white and the main and staysail cream colored. The drifter and  the topsail will be cut from 4 oz light blue nylon.

Keeping the Water on the Outside

There will be 8 below the waterline thru hull penetrations for two cockpit drains, engine cooling water, a speed and water depth transducer, galley sink drain, head sink drain, raw water intake ( to a manifold serving 3 washdown stations, the watermaker, and the AC/Heater) and the head discharge. All of the thru hulls except the trnasducer will be protected by 1 1/2 inch Spartan flanged seacocks.

A hose and/or seacock valve failure at any of these points could sink the boat. A hull breach as a result of a collision or an open or broken hatch or port hole in heavy weather are also threats to the vessel buoyancy.  An effective bilge pump system might stem the flow of incoming water enough to buy time to effect repairs, send a mayday or launch a life raft.  Day in and day out the bilge pump system will be charged with keeping the interior of the boat dry by removing any accumulation of casual water (a golf term?) in the bilge.

The BCC bilge is deepest  ( and also narrowest) aft of the engine below the fuel tank. Further forward between the two water tanks the bilge is slightly shallower but accessible. With this in mind, Rose will be equipped with 3 bilge pumps, two electric submersibles and one manual diaphram pump.

The Rule 1100 is rated to 10 gallons per minute with 4 feet of head and will serve as the primary bilge pump. It's small enough to fit in the bottom of the bilge below the prop shaft and has an integral float switch and strainer.  A larger Rule Model 3700 will serve as the secondary high water pump and will be situated between the two water tanks about 6 inches off bottom.  The manual Whale Gusher 10 will be mounted on the lazerette side of the cockpit.  Each of the three pumps will have its own discharge line with an in-line non-return valve.

So, assuming the engine is running, batteries are fully charged and a fresh crew member is manning the Whale Gusher, all three pumps working together will be able to remove about 45 gallons per minute.   Finally, for cruising I will keep a spare Gusher with 6 feet of suction hose and a strum box, so if there's no power and manually pumping from the cockpit is not feasible........ pull the discharge hose off the Rule 3700 and connect it to this pump.

Rose Photos

The re-designed, but not finished, anchor rollers are lighter (than the first design) but still attach to the gammoniron and stem of the boat not the bowsprit.

Twin 70 amp Nippon Denos alternators add  to the engine dimensions but still fit nicely.

The 750 watt Countour microwave just barely fit in the upper cabinet space. 

 Two mastervolt 115 amp hour 78 lb AGMs reside just to starboard of companion way.  The other pair lives under the quarter berth to port.  You can just see the mastervolt 2000/100 inverter charger under the foot of the starboard side pilot berth.

 Blues Seas Panel.

 Looking forward.

Galley port side mid-ship.

 Curtis wiring fresh water pump.

Chart table / Cool Blue reefer. (Copper sink goes the other side)

 Epoxy, Primer, two part polyurethane.

 Starboard stern.

 Allcraft water heater in lazerette on port side.

 Allcraft for now is not stocking their 5 gallon unit so went with 9 gallon....... got back some of the pot water capacity lost when I lowered the sole ( and reduced the height of both water tanks) to achieve 6' 3" headroom.

Shore power outlet on starboard housetop. 













I think I will leave teak bulwarks natural.