Tumblehome

It's all about the curves........

It's all bout the curves

Chain Plates and Anchor Rollers

The cap shrouds will attach to the single eye chain plate now firmly fastened to the hull.  The double wide chain plate will serve double duty to the lower shroud and the topping lift.

Should have installed chain plates before shelves.

The stainless steel backing plate is glassed to the underside of the deck.  Sampson posts sprit heel is fastened with 3/4 inch hex cap srews 4 inches long.

Gammon iron fastened

Need to find 6 inch long 1/2 inch carriage bolts to fasten thru rub rail and hull.

Boomkin stays

Port side chain plates 

Stem mounted rollers

Starboard side chain plates

Need to bellmouth anchor line bails so not to chafe rode



Seen from astern

Deck Chain plates for running backstays  

Again but closer



Wide one aft for topping lift and lower 5/16 inch shrouds and forward  for 1/4 inch cap shrouds

Fore Deck

Just aft of  the stem a bronze plate is attached to the bow with 6 ea. 1/2 inch machine screws.  The sampson post / sprit heal will be shimed and faired so the bowsprit will set at the correct angle.

The new Muir windlass will install a foot further forward than the ABI manual footprint.

The gamon iron is not installed.  The anchor roller cheeks are slotted to fit on the plate fixing the angle so both anchors look down but stow without touching the hull.

Rollers and gammon iron.

Bowsprit heal installed on butt end.   Dimensions are 5 inch by 5 inch to just past rollers then 4 7/8 inch diameter tapering to 3 3/4.  The length is 12 ft 10 in overall; 8 ft 10 inches from forestay on gammon iron bail to headstay at cranze iron.

Keeping the Water on the Outside

There will be 8 below the waterline thru hull penetrations for two cockpit drains, engine cooling water, a speed and water depth transducer, galley sink drain, head sink drain, raw water intake ( to a manifold serving 3 washdown stations, the watermaker, and the AC/Heater) and the head discharge. All of the thru hulls except the trnasducer will be protected by 1 1/2 inch Spartan flanged seacocks.

A hose and/or seacock valve failure at any of these points could sink the boat. A hull breach as a result of a collision or an open or broken hatch or port hole in heavy weather are also threats to the vessel buoyancy.  An effective bilge pump system might stem the flow of incoming water enough to buy time to effect repairs, send a mayday or launch a life raft.  Day in and day out the bilge pump system will be charged with keeping the interior of the boat dry by removing any accumulation of casual water (a golf term?) in the bilge.

The BCC bilge is deepest  ( and also narrowest) aft of the engine below the fuel tank. Further forward between the two water tanks the bilge is slightly shallower but accessible. With this in mind, Rose will be equipped with 3 bilge pumps, two electric submersibles and one manual diaphram pump.

The Rule 1100 is rated to 10 gallons per minute with 4 feet of head and will serve as the primary bilge pump. It's small enough to fit in the bottom of the bilge below the prop shaft and has an integral float switch and strainer.  A larger Rule Model 3700 will serve as the secondary high water pump and will be situated between the two water tanks about 6 inches off bottom.  The manual Whale Gusher 10 will be mounted on the lazerette side of the cockpit.  Each of the three pumps will have its own discharge line with an in-line non-return valve.

So, assuming the engine is running, batteries are fully charged and a fresh crew member is manning the Whale Gusher, all three pumps working together will be able to remove about 45 gallons per minute.   Finally, for cruising I will keep a spare Gusher with 6 feet of suction hose and a strum box, so if there's no power and manually pumping from the cockpit is not feasible........ pull the discharge hose off the Rule 3700 and connect it to this pump.

Interior Progress Photos

Several posts ago I was singing the blues over the longitudnal lines of the starboard side furniture.  The pilot berth face and settee back traced a fore and aft line of its own mind outlining functional but formless furniture. It just looked crooked. 

As shown in the photo to the right the fix is in. It is too early to visualize the end product but trust me, the reconstructed furniture is now fair.

Here are a few more photos of the current state of affairs below deck:

Weights and Measures

Picking up a few pounds are we? I hope not, but let's get on the scale before we get too far along. A full dead weight survey would provide the detailed data necessary to calculate the port and starboard and fore and aft trim when she hits the water. For now I will simply stay aware of all appliances, equipment, variable loads and construction materials that have been or will be added, removed or changed as a part of the reconstruction project. Location changes are just as important as the net weight changes.

Progress Photos

These two shots best illustrate year to date repair progress.  I hope to have her all the way back by May of next year but if it takes longer so be it. There are more damage and progress photos posted on Flickr at:

Sea Star Pics

Hull Repairs

Juan and his crew finished repairs to the fiber glass and new gel coat application last month.   The lay up schedule was in accordance to specs provided by Cape George.  Starboard side main bulkheads and the engine install should be finished by end September.