tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4237269146744379262024-02-18T19:36:51.870-06:00Bristol Channel Cutter RestorationTo document the restoration and repair of the Bristol Channel Cutter "Sea Star", now "Rose", following damage suffered in Sept 2008 Hurricane Ike.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger106125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-34071036789218403332013-06-11T22:13:00.001-05:002013-06-11T22:13:08.599-05:00Sea TrialsI had to make changes to the topping lift rigging as well as the running backstays. Both are working smoother now. <br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-86907103717025900752013-04-10T20:26:00.002-05:002013-04-10T20:26:47.367-05:00Another Pic Tomorrow, weather permitting, Rose will be under sail for the first time in 5 years. <br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-24674538212763688622013-03-06T16:09:00.000-06:002013-03-10T09:21:20.055-05:00Photos<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Since last post I stepped the mast and installed the standing rigging. I still have a few bits of rigging to finish before I can bend on sails. Here are a few recent photos:<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-29098549120220025092012-12-19T17:31:00.000-06:002012-12-19T17:44:54.345-06:00Punch ListRose is temporarily docked at Clear Lake Yacht Center where Juan will paint a boot stripe and coat the bottom with anti-fouling paint. Yesterday we pulled the mast to re-cut the mast step 3/4 inch to starboard. This should center the 6 inch diameter mast in the 8 inch diameter mast partners and solve the starboard list issue. <br />
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Before the mast goes back the Maretron WSO 100 wind speed/direction transducer has to be replaced. Not sure why it failed but we don't have time to wait for the diagnosis from Maretron, They are going to expedite delivery of a new one and discuss warranty/credit on the old one later. <br />
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The Koden radar antenna is not working either. Tom the electrician thinks the problem is the control box that interfaces with the pc. Koden is going to look at it and advise. This project is not in the critical path. We can step the mast and set the antenna from a bosun's chair after Koden makes repairs.<br />
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The slip is pretty shallow at the forward end and I backed the boat in, so at low tide she grounded and pushed the rudder pintles out of the gudgeons. My to do list included "install nylon keeper washers on top two pintles" so the rudder would not come off. I have been putting this project off because I don't know where they go. I shall query the BCC forum tonight; maybe someone has a photo. <br />
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The starboard boom gallows stanchion was not straight; it was leaning outboard. The angle of the teak base was too shallow so had to pull it and install a new base and then trim a bit of the teak gallows length. Everything is lined up nice and square now so I can install life lines.....1/2 inch three strand on top and 3/8 on bottom.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-10079016872180581842012-11-28T13:36:00.002-06:002012-11-28T15:02:14.275-06:00Floating but not Done<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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Next week we will pull the mast in order to adjust the mast step. We cut it too far to the port side. Once properly positioned on centerline the starboard list should disappear. <br />
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The battery box serves as the first step of the companionway ladder. It will be easier to cut it down a bit than to build a shorter ladder. The other items on the to do list are relatively minor but that to do list seems to be a living thing; I whittle it down from the bottom and it grows from the top . </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The load out and road trip from Marsh Boatyard to Hillman's Marine on Dickinson Bayou went off without a Hitch, (as in no problems)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dickinson Bayou Launch<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stepped mast at Seabrook and she listed hard starboard.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The socket is cut 3/4 of an inch too far port </td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-25513492803688257832012-11-17T09:18:00.002-06:002012-11-17T09:18:58.682-06:00Hull SpeedMaking 22 knots<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-58103230297352163262012-11-04T09:32:00.000-06:002012-11-04T09:32:24.593-06:00Spar CoatingMy spars are Sitka Spruce. When I commissioned Bruce to build the spars I decided that the mast should be the same color as the Douglas Fir staving on the hull sides down below. So he stained the mast, then applied two coats of epoxy ahead of the varnish. The stain was a bad idea....my mistake.<br />
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Bruce mis-read the spar plans and built the mast 13 inches short.....his mistake. A clothes pin scarf lengthened the mast back to plan but the stain and varnish on the bottom of the new lower section did not match the original coating. "That's OK, give's it character.....memorializes the journey", my wife said. <br />
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I installed the radar antenna mounts using 3M 5200 since it would never have to be removed. Turned out I had installed it too high on the mast foul of the headstay and it did in fact have to be removed. The mounts took the varnish and a layer of Spruce with them..................my mistake (it was my turn). Then the steaming light had to be pulled so it could be seen under the radar antenna. And again the repaired area didn't match....more character. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After sanding back to bare spruce</td></tr>
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I decided the splotchy mast was not going to get it, so we removed all the mast furniture and stripped the spars back to bare spruce. This time we skipped the stain and went with three coats of Awlgrip's "Awlspar" varnish followed by multiple coats of their "Awlbrite Clear", a polyurethane with UV inhibitors. This system is advertised to be much more durable and longer lasting than the equivalent varnish over epoxy. We shall see.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First coat of Awlbrite</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-74947074493250785952012-10-22T06:04:00.000-05:002012-10-22T06:04:40.061-05:00Still Rigging Up<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;">
Posted a few recent photos to Picasa today. As you can see we now have a dodger, belaying pins and settee cushions. The Radar antenna had to move down the mast to stay away from the jib halyard and headstay. It now lives just below the spreaders and above the home of the gaff saddle when the main is at full hoist. Speaking of gaffs I made a major one using 5200 to bed the radar mount. Now trying to hide the scars with plugs, West System Epoxy and a bit of stain. </div>
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Current plan is to launch at Hillman's Marina on Dickinson Bayou and motor over to Clear Lake Yacht Center to marry the mast, add boot stripe, bottom paint, compound and wax the hull. Sea trials around Thanksgiving and sailing before year end. </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-83477083191915394952012-09-11T14:32:00.000-05:002012-09-11T14:32:14.967-05:00ScandalizingThe main fits good....thanks Heidi.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-47864777004171338552012-08-26T04:08:00.000-05:002012-08-26T04:08:20.094-05:00Rigged Up (Sorta) <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm glad I decided to rig up the spars before launching. Turned out to be a few more issues (let's call them new challenges) than I thought there would be. The headstay is too short.....the knuckle head in charge of measuring (that would be me) should be keel hauled. The topping lifts are chafing against the lower shrouds and will have to be re-routed. And the radio frequency interference from the Orca LED tri-color is killing the VHF and AIS reception. Will address these and bend on the mains'l next week. </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-4326680059258809382012-07-29T13:56:00.000-05:002012-07-29T15:13:49.066-05:00Dry Stepping the Mast<br />
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When we take her to the river I want to step the mast, paint the boot stripe and leave, pronto. Stay too long at Hillman's and the shrimpers will steal the hubcaps off her. To make sure that operation goes smoothly I have decided to step the mast and rig up right were we sit. That means doing it twice but I think the dress rehearsal approach will pay dividends in the long run. With this in mind we pulled Rose out of the shed yesterday.<br />
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The small round piece of stained glass I bought from the hobby lady in Spring Branch was supposed to fit inside the port light over the chart table. I was short one bug screen anyway so seemed a good idea. It did not fit (measure once and buy it twice), so we made it a part of the forward cabin door instead. The idea unabashedly stolen from fellow BCCer, Stewart. Turned out to be a better use for this bauble of colored glass anyway.<br />
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The companionway doors turned out nice and the galley is shaping up. I can't believe I lost one of the brass hinges for the refrigerator door. As soon as I buy a new pair the lost one will turn up. Engine room wiring needs serious organizational (and labeling) attention.<br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-30759421783351722242012-07-13T22:50:00.000-05:002012-07-13T22:50:37.920-05:00Argonaut Monitor<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
In a previous blog entry I described the dc drive <a href="http://bccrebuild.blogspot.com/2010/01/onboard-computer.html">onboard computer</a> that runs the chart plotting and network software. At the chart table a Viewsonic monitor relies on shore power or, away from the dock, the inverter. The cockpit monitor is a dc 15 inch Argonaut Tflex G6 15XLR. I used three heavy duty hatch hinges to mount the monitior in front of, but still slightly inside the companionway opening. If the companionway doors have to be closed or the drop boards installed you don't have to move the monitor and if someone needs to go below, unpin the port side hinge and it swings open to starboard and out of the way. </div>
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The cigarette lighter dc power outlet is on the underside of the starboard cabinet that hides the back of the compass. This dc power outlet is connected to a dc dc power transformer to insure that the monitor always sees clean power. Use this outlet to charge the cell phone and no more frying cell phone batteries. </div>
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The Simrad TP 32 Tiller Pilot is set up to drive the boat's tiller directly from a socket mounted on the starboard stern deck or alternatively the small trim tab tiller mounted on top of the rudder as shown in the photos below. The trim tab is part of the Freehand wind vane lower unit designed and built by Mike Anderson. The wind vane itself normally mounts to the backstay but my boat is gaff rigged with running backstays so I didn't buy the upper unit. And besides, for the next year I will be gunkholing around here staying close to land so no urgent need for a wind vane. But ultimately I am going to have to figure out a mounting solution for a Freehand vane. </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This entry is an update that replaces an older one on the subject of rigging. Last year I blogged about the virtues of keeping a small amount of stretch in the standing rigging by incorporating stainless wire in the rig, specifically for the shrouds and forestay. At the end of the day I opted for the weight savings of an all Dyneema system. The lighter Dyneema stays won't offset the weight gain I picked up from the bronze mast bands and the wooden mast but it certainly helps. The mast with wiring and radar antenna weighed in at 270 lbs, the boom 70, the gaff with saddle 30 and the mast furniture including the Dyneema stays, 90. I think the total 480 lb rig weight is about 160 lbs over the standard aluminum mast and bermudean rig. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP8SyUdhsGj5NxoRZ7y_WEGTDdicebSqkw1HIpiik9Pdf6PflJWn_5mGW67ri5WQ2pi1IDW8yf7mgkalOoF3-b9c7BTS8tOb9YdEGYyQkAAlNs7cfeeiF7STi5wnZ35Bdu-5ERmXk1l5NP/s1600/IMG_0879.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP8SyUdhsGj5NxoRZ7y_WEGTDdicebSqkw1HIpiik9Pdf6PflJWn_5mGW67ri5WQ2pi1IDW8yf7mgkalOoF3-b9c7BTS8tOb9YdEGYyQkAAlNs7cfeeiF7STi5wnZ35Bdu-5ERmXk1l5NP/s320/IMG_0879.JPG" t="t" true="true" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />The mast will be supported fore and aft by a headstay from the cranze iron at the end of the bowsprit, a forestay from the gammon iron ( same as the bermudean plan) and two running backstays. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here is a photo of the two chain plates.Two pair of shrouds will stay the mast athwartship…… the uppers from a single chain plate 2 inches aft of the mast CL and a pair of lowers set on a double eyed chain plate 26 inches aft of the mast CL. The lower topping lift blocks will set on the second eye.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The head stay, fore stay, backstays and shrouds will be 9 mm Dyneema Dux from Colligo Marine. Lashings for the deadeyes and line terminators will be 6 mm Dyneema. A Colligo luff line furler with stainless steel upper swivel will serve all of the free flying jibs'ls and set on a 2 to 1 halyard that falls to a Lewmar 30ST two speed self tailing winch mounted on the port side of the mast. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">All the running rigging will be 7/16 inch single braid white with navy tracer Yale "PHD Racer". The "racer version" of this line is a spectra/polyester weave with virtually no stretch, ideal for my long multi-purchase halyards This line is smooth running through blocks and winch grippy with a soft hand making it well suited for the sheets as well. The only downside is it does not come in all white and as one might expect, it is a bit pricey. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A small bronze band with two lugs and a grove cut to serve as a hound for a loop sits on the shoulder of the mast truck. The leader line is looped over this band and falls to the starboard stern quarter of the mast base. The tops'l halyard block hangs from the aft lug and a gantline/ spinnaker block hangs from the other lug. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The top half of the tops'l is hanked to the leader line with dyneema soft shakles. The lower half of the tops'l is cut back to keep it away from the peak halyard blocks. Rigged properly with a port and starboard downhaul the lower part of the tops'l can be triced over the peak halyard tackle and thus set fair on either tack.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cgdc_TjlDOA/TjIxYnw_eTI/AAAAAAAABKg/-dbBeFAHBEQ/s1600/IMG_1236.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cgdc_TjlDOA/TjIxYnw_eTI/AAAAAAAABKg/-dbBeFAHBEQ/s320/IMG_1236.JPG" t="t" true="true" width="320" /></a><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Dyneema headstay attaches to the mast below the truck with a loup over a hound. The lower end is lashed to the cranse iron with 6 mm dyneema.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The split mast band below the hounds has lugs on the aft side and eye nuts port and starboard. The jib halyard is set on a two part purchase with the upper block on the port aft eye nut and the dead end lashed to the mast band below this one, separating the two parts to keep them from twisting. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On the aft side the upper peak halyard block attaches to the 1/2 inch eye with a twisted shackle to orient the block correctly. The port and starboard upper shrouds will pin to the 1/2 inch toggles. </span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next split mast band a few feet further down the mast has a lug aft and eye nuts port and starboard. On the aft side the lower peak halyard block will pin to the mast band like the upper, on a twisted shackle so that the block will be properly oriented fore and aft and still be free to move horizontally as the gaff twists off. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The backstays will be 9 mm Dyneema with line terminators on toggles pined to the band bolts. The lower end of the backstays will attach to a 2:1 whip reeved through a single on top and a single with becket at the deck mounted chain plate. The fall will lead from the lower single direct to the windward jib sheet winch so the runners should not lack for power. The whip will double as one of the two dinghy hoists.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXvpuljEmW_i0c0qOp5SP91ik1koKknbbObil-2og-UdFBmhyWxFY9QcyWApEloYXX46BpRIIxVyBm60Fkot87emv3LK_rV0ZpUgFat-4Yc-gFqjHeqh8wod07PUQ0y29O3CxWNAPnf9At/s1600/IMG_1293.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXvpuljEmW_i0c0qOp5SP91ik1koKknbbObil-2og-UdFBmhyWxFY9QcyWApEloYXX46BpRIIxVyBm60Fkot87emv3LK_rV0ZpUgFat-4Yc-gFqjHeqh8wod07PUQ0y29O3CxWNAPnf9At/s320/IMG_1293.JPG" t="t" true="true" width="320" /></a><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">The third split mast band has two lugs one forward and one aft. The aft lug eye is for the double throat halyard block.This<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> upper throat halyard double block ( a single is shown in the photo) is oriented athwartship with the lead off the forward sheave falling to stbd/aft side of mast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> T</span>he lower throat halyard block is a single with a becket connected direct to the gaff saddle axle that runs athwartship. </span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">The forward lug has two eyes, one for the forestay and one for a single stays'l halyard block. The forestay will have to be measured precisely so I can eliminate the turnbuckle at the gammon iron and therefore allow the stays'l to drop all the way to the deck when doused. There will only be a toggle and thimble at the main deck. Forestay tension will come from the aft lowers and running backstays. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The last split band is positioned just below the spreaders. Port and starboard toggles connect the aft lower shrouds to the Colligo line terminators and to deadeyes lashed to the chain plates. </span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7NEJ_lvm9No/TvEon2QCJLI/AAAAAAAACwE/juQHhdht6rk/s1600/IMG_1513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" kda="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7NEJ_lvm9No/TvEon2QCJLI/AAAAAAAACwE/juQHhdht6rk/s320/IMG_1513.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The port and starboard topping lifts are 7/16 inch Yale reeved from the boom to static single blocks(not in photo) lashed to the eye nuts on this band and then to a 3 part tackle consisting of a fiddle block and a single and becket and finally pined to the spare eye on the aft chain plate. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUOdEy5578rX-d14cvNm_6TiFeacwQ-kJoRYGHiBx44A7ceG-sm8p9jci49Mjz5Iej9Jx-hbamG4adz6_6XRmL4jWZMBo2sFfUl3gJHRaTGOVqTYA0jdEq7DaICsXz7NFOnxPDvS47GBUh/s1600/BCC-41-003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="452" ox="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUOdEy5578rX-d14cvNm_6TiFeacwQ-kJoRYGHiBx44A7ceG-sm8p9jci49Mjz5Iej9Jx-hbamG4adz6_6XRmL4jWZMBo2sFfUl3gJHRaTGOVqTYA0jdEq7DaICsXz7NFOnxPDvS47GBUh/s640/BCC-41-003.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7ydZrp0S7TM/Tjz3s5JsafI/AAAAAAAABTs/GS09YQWM8dw/s1600/IMG_1295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7ydZrp0S7TM/Tjz3s5JsafI/AAAAAAAABTs/GS09YQWM8dw/s320/IMG_1295.JPG" t="t" true="true" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That brings us back down to deck level. The fixed gooseneck has an integral pin rail for belaying halyards. In addition the port and starboard bulwarks each have three belaying pins midship. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">All the halyards and downhauls will terminate at the base of the mast or the pin rails at the gunwales. Only the hauling ends of the backstay tackles will be in reach of the cockpit. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The main sheet will be Harken blocks rove to a four part purchase with a fiddle block on the boom bail, a single with Becket on the traveller car and a single with cam cleat fixed to the center of the taffrail in front of the track. The mainsail outhaul car will run on a Harken track bent to conform to the taffrail curve and capped on each end with a 4 to 1 purchase system to make easy work of hauling the car uphill . </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The bowsprit traveler will be on a two part purchase with a bronze cage block at the sprit end. Shrouds will be fastened to chain plates with 5mm Dyneema lashings through Colligo line distributors and terminators.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHIkeI_2QH7blTQw-XX7C6nBFb4CXhA6Kdz1BGH46-xaCFRNBvDSc04kLHUSTIfrBNqW-OIAS8-eb4NXRT4Anm3QU6E7EOJJnedxBD62In-TFb4Mo53dxPdlsdpJUvpjffCl7BORqzMRLe/s1600/IMG_1243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHIkeI_2QH7blTQw-XX7C6nBFb4CXhA6Kdz1BGH46-xaCFRNBvDSc04kLHUSTIfrBNqW-OIAS8-eb4NXRT4Anm3QU6E7EOJJnedxBD62In-TFb4Mo53dxPdlsdpJUvpjffCl7BORqzMRLe/s320/IMG_1243.JPG" t="t" true="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">The mains'l outhaul is on a 2: 1 purchase with a car on a track attached to the bottom of the boom. This 2:1 purchase will be compounded to 8:1 with a 4:1 tackle positioned under the boom close to the mast. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-39434647723000465332012-06-09T23:31:00.001-05:002012-07-02T14:17:58.393-05:00Pretend Teak<br />
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We still have to add a bead of caulking around the cabin sole to clean up the edges but installation of the Nu Teak synthetic teak cockpit deck and cabin sole is all but done. By using Nu Teak instead of the real thing we were able to keep most all of the head room we gained by lowering the cabin sole. And in the cockpit, no more pulling the teak deck grate to take on water or diesel. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3li2Ahx3cfSWwck3TsVHlsoyAVjwk3s26sY3wiEUd5WKCk_-SEBnxi8AbskDE1xvKWYj1HVCN2MKujUINDQ4pkTdi_G7L4G1H7vRakJJnVa4l43FM7sUdEKZnEjLusBXJVIyrRk2xeDmH/s1600/IMG_1694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" fba="true" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3li2Ahx3cfSWwck3TsVHlsoyAVjwk3s26sY3wiEUd5WKCk_-SEBnxi8AbskDE1xvKWYj1HVCN2MKujUINDQ4pkTdi_G7L4G1H7vRakJJnVa4l43FM7sUdEKZnEjLusBXJVIyrRk2xeDmH/s640/IMG_1694.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyo6qJPfjH1TcWTs8rPbE_Qk-mxtrJNGlK6V53Xw-PL_OE3QkVDZqnBAqeZLp72lqKerL4fmzf6lWvCgrWLJ-mukzmsIFob2KTm44bHOglC062ZEAzRfetv1SO4ePYpcMtx2Af2b-kmGLp/s1600/IMG_1697.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" fba="true" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyo6qJPfjH1TcWTs8rPbE_Qk-mxtrJNGlK6V53Xw-PL_OE3QkVDZqnBAqeZLp72lqKerL4fmzf6lWvCgrWLJ-mukzmsIFob2KTm44bHOglC062ZEAzRfetv1SO4ePYpcMtx2Af2b-kmGLp/s640/IMG_1697.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0EwcfgSZTaCoN715tm6vY4SuNx4MzxgQE_eF9wtUzPT-41hwbPvta3uPrGK_eGW2YzmRWEM6849saQAsBihN7TlNxALH0Nx5tZpHWF9Plf0WrzDrPjdMU2BOlvg8gh-3FJF2ZKrw3wmFZ/s1600/IMG_1698.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" fba="true" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0EwcfgSZTaCoN715tm6vY4SuNx4MzxgQE_eF9wtUzPT-41hwbPvta3uPrGK_eGW2YzmRWEM6849saQAsBihN7TlNxALH0Nx5tZpHWF9Plf0WrzDrPjdMU2BOlvg8gh-3FJF2ZKrw3wmFZ/s640/IMG_1698.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-71977366661914841572012-05-14T22:57:00.000-05:002012-07-02T14:13:04.692-05:00The Doors<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We will have varnish on the forward cabin and companion way doors by this time next week but here are some advance photos. Really happy with companion way doors......nice tight fit. The drop boards now become back-ups. Interior and exterior hardware offers some security for the boat from the outside and for the crew from the inside. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OkVKTKe8OaY/T7HOBYy7-GI/AAAAAAAADOE/dFCyL5SXSWQ/s1600/IMG_1678.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" dba="true" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OkVKTKe8OaY/T7HOBYy7-GI/AAAAAAAADOE/dFCyL5SXSWQ/s640/IMG_1678.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-48391914435120927992012-04-29T20:13:00.000-05:002012-07-02T14:13:51.896-05:00Finish Line in Sight<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Dry fitting a cardboard mail tube in place of the mast allows me to accurately pattern a sail cover, make the final cut on the boom gallows stanchions and cut the mast wedges. </div>
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Thankfully all below deck sanding, painting and varnishing is done. Tom the electrician can now finish installing the new SSB, tuner and the KISS counterpoise. Next week we will lay the Nu-Tek fake teak deck. Other biggies on the to do list are frig/freezer doors and the forward cabin door. Settee cushions are also on that list. </div>
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And here is a photo from 3 1/2 years ago when the finish line was far away.<br />
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The seventh mast hoop is a spare. The hoop stack with mains'l stowed is going to make for a very wide mains'l cover but I don't want to lace the main to the mast. I spent some bucks on the hoops and I am going to at least start with them. I can always switch to lacings later and recut the cover. <br />
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-88200889795520129892012-04-21T16:15:00.000-05:002012-07-02T14:14:27.120-05:00Rose Bud<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A few more recent photos:</div>
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Next month we will truck the boat to Hillman's Marine on Dickinson Bayou. Hillman's is the closest point of entry with the water depth and crane capacity we need. Their prices are reasonable and they have no problem with outside contractors working in their yard. After we see where she floats on her lines Hillman's will take us back out of the water so we can paint the boot stripe, apply bottom paint and step the mast.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-10065430345959657862012-01-07T18:03:00.002-06:002012-07-02T14:15:21.109-05:00Rod Bobstay On<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<strong>Dimensions</strong><br />
The mast is Sitka Spruce and measures 45 ft from the top of the ballast or 39 feet from the main deck. The diameter at the base is 6 3/4 inches. At the 32 foot mark the diameter tapers down to 3 inches. The stays and runners will be 9mm synthetic Dyneema from Coligo. The gooseneck will be 9 ft 4 inch above the keel step or 40 inches above the main deck or 22 inches above the house top.<br />
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<strong>Topsail Leader Line</strong><br />
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A 9mm Dyneema leader line will attach to the top mast band to support the the bottom half of the topsail luff. A line terminator will connect to the lower eye on the aft side of the mast through a pair of 5/8 inch toggles. The terminator will fit the jaws of a 5/8 inch toggle but not the 1/2 inch toggle. With two toggles the leader line can align itself on deck transversely and longitudinally. After the boom is rigged up I will find a good deck location and attachment point that doen't interfere with the swing of the boom. <br />
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According to Brion Toss this leader line will make it much easier to strike the topsail regardless of wind direction. Brion adds that, “It will keep the sail inboard and bundled up whether it is going up or down. In addition, of course, the jackstay, properly tensioned, allows for a better to-weather shape, without an absurdly tensioned halyard. In addition to supporting the luff of the topsail the jackstay will be used to set a trysail on hanks. </div>
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<strong>Headstay</strong></div>
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Just below the spinnaker halyard block the 9 mm Dyneema Dux headstay will be attached to the mast on a spliced soft eye against a bronze hound on the aft side of the mast 6 feet below the top of the mast at the 39 foot mark.. On deck a 1/2 inch distributor will pin to the middle eye of the cranse iron through a 1/2 inch toggle. The distribtor will be lashed to the line terminator.<br />
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<strong>Upper Shrouds</strong><br />
The upper mast band is positioned 2.5 feet further down at 36.6 feet on the mast. The upper line terminator will pin to the toggle not directly to the mast band so the shroud can line up longitudinally and transversely. On deck the 1/2 inch chain plate distributor will pin directly to the chain plate. The distributor and the terminator should be about 18 inches apart, connected by a 4 part 1/4 inch lashing. The jib halyard block and the upper peak halyard block will be attached to this same mast band. <br />
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<strong>Backstays</strong><br />
Next at 35 feet another split mast band will support the two 9 mm Dyneema Dux backstays and the lower peak halyard block. At the top the backstay line terminators will shakle or lash to the aft eyes of the split mast band. The lower terminator will pin to a whip consisting of two single blocks one with a becket. The falls will lead to the jib sheet winches.<br />
<strong>Forestay</strong><br />
A third split mast band will be positioned four feet three inches further down at the 31 foot level to support the Dyneema Dux forestay on the forward face and the throat halyard block on an aft facing crane. The tang that faces down in the photo below has one 1/2 inch eye for the staysail halyard block. I will drill a second one above it for the forestay itself. I will also need a 1/2 inch jaw by jaw toggle to connect the line terminator to the tang. A single block for the staysail halyard will attach direct to the lower eye.<br />
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The shroud will attach directly to the gammon iron with a 1/2 inch line terminator on a jaw to jaw toggle. The toggle lets me use 1/2 inch fittings instead of 3/4 inch, allows more movement and turns the line terminator so it faces fore and aft. An exact length forestay eliminates the stack of fittings and lashings that would otherwise prevent the stays'l from falling all the way to deck level when struck. The other option is to put a turnbuckle up at the mast band. It would be a pain to get at but I am assuming you would only have to adjust one time. Once the rig is tuned the length of this stay will not change. Any fine tuning of this stay can be done on deck by adjusting the aft lowers and/or the runners. <br />
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<strong>Lower Shrouds</strong><br />
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The lowest band is positioned just under the spreader at the 28.5 foot level on the mast. The lowers attach to the toggles on a 1/2 inch line terminator. The port and starboard topping lift lines will fall from two Coligo static blocks lashed to the eye bolts on this same mast band. On deck the 1/2 inch chain plate distributor will pin to the forward eye of the chain plate. The topping lift block will attach to the aft eye on the same chain plate. And like the cap shrouds the distributor and the terminator for the lowers will be about 18 inches apart and connect with a 4 part 1/4 inch lashing. </div>
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-45187471954529261292011-12-20T22:51:00.000-06:002012-07-02T14:30:13.209-05:00Dressing the MastBetween varnish coats we dry fitted all the mast bands and the new bronze spreaders. The upper shrouds attach to the toggles on the port and starboard sides of the top mast band. The jib halyard block will hang on the forward face and the upper peak halyard block on the aft side of this same band. Right now we have 7 coats of varnish on and 5 more to go. The first photo shows the sanded mast at the top band. The next shot was taken after the fog burned off (and it did, just like WD said it would) and we (Jorge) got coat number 7 down. Above the top mast band the mast is painted white.<br />
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The bronze spreaders are attached to the mast just above the bottom band. They sweep aft 3 and up 5 degrees and will direct the 1/4 inch 1 x 19 stainless steel wire upper shrouds to the top mast band.</div>
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After Christmas we should be ready to pull wire through the mast and install electrical components. I still have not figured out how to mount the spreader lights. Above the spreaders the steaming light will mount to the forward face of the mast. The steaming light indicates that the vessel is making way under the engine's power. The Koden radar antenna will be mounted on the mast above the steaming light. The wire bundle for these three components will exit the mast just below the spreaders. </div>
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Three more wires will have to continue on to the masthead, one for the tricolor/anchor light, one for the wind indicator sensor and another for the VHF radio antenna. The AIS antenna is going to have to live at deck level on the boomkin. </div>
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After the mast is fully dressed we will knock down the tent and step the mast, Once the standing and running rigging is installed the mast will be unstepped and boat and spars transported to the shipyard. Hope to launch by April but not on the first and not on a Friday.</div>
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-90214215812459556112011-12-02T22:37:00.001-06:002011-12-02T23:09:56.331-06:00Mast Carrier Morphs back to Whisper Trailer<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Whisper is a gaff rigged 18 foot Cape Dory Typhon knock-off. She also sank in Hurricane Ike. Since we are varnishing Rose spars and topsides daily we spread a bit on Whisper. The gel coat responded well to compounding, polish and wax. </div>
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Whisper's trailer has returned from temporary mast carrier sevice.</div>
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We have pulled Rose out from under the big top another couple of feet so we can install the boom glallows stanchions. The boom and gaff have 12 coats of varnish. The mast has 4 on and 8 to go. </div>
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-423726914674437926.post-57935816417710006812011-11-13T14:20:00.001-06:002012-07-02T14:21:22.395-05:00It's the Little ThingsProgress is not quite as obvious as in the early stages but certainly more fun as equipment and systems fire up. Last week we started the Beta Marine engine. Runs like a sewing machine; it does'nt shimmy and shake at low RPM like the Yamar used to do.<br />
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Compass is in, lazerette locker complete, Climma AC and Technautics refrigerator both up and running. The instrutment panel over the chart table is close to completion. The left panel houses the computer monitor. Mounted on the center panel are battery monitor display, AIS, barometer, Maretron NMEA 2000 display, AC and refrigerator control/display panels and the ipod player. On the right side the SSB, VHF and computer will mount on three shelves. </div>
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Interior paint and cabinetry work is 90 per cent complete.<br />
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The mast is back from major surgery. An error during orginal construction had the mast 13 inches shorter than called for on the spar plan. Simon Hameka used a clothes pin scarf on the mast base to add 19 inches of length. We will make the final cut with a 2 inch tenon after we step the mast. We will step it once where she sits on the hard and then finally after we launch at Seabrook Shipyard. <strong>Whisper</strong> (the baby gaffer) is looking pretty smart as well.<br />
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<br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0