The Vetus dual chamber wet muffler is well below the exhaust gooseneck under the shaft. By design it splits into two pieces so you could actually get it out without pulling the shaft if you had to.
Saturday, October 30, 2010
Current Photos
The Vetus dual chamber wet muffler is well below the exhaust gooseneck under the shaft. By design it splits into two pieces so you could actually get it out without pulling the shaft if you had to.
Thursday, October 28, 2010
Sails and Mast Furniture
Previous entries describe Rose's sail plan and the standing and running rigging configuration. The design of each has changed, not dramatically, but enough to warrant an update. These modifications will insure that tackle runs free and leads are fair.
The staysail will hank to the forestay and the halyard will be rove to a single block. With a sway hook on deck there should be no need for more than one block. The free flying jibsails, yankee and genoa, will set on a bowsprit traveller and a Colligo luff line furler. The Colligo furler has its own two part purchase block on the upper swivel. However, a two part purchase won't provide enough power to get 1200 lbs of tension on the jib luff. A properly sized self-tailing winch will be mounted on the port side of the mast to supplement the 2 to 1 purchase.
I will only have two jibs in my sail inventory, a yankee and a full working jib (110 genoa). The staysail will have one reef point. The main, staysail, genoa and yankee will be made from 7 oz clipper cloth. The two jibs will be white and the main and staysail cream colored. The drifter and the topsail will be cut from 4 oz light blue nylon.
The staysail will hank to the forestay and the halyard will be rove to a single block. With a sway hook on deck there should be no need for more than one block. The free flying jibsails, yankee and genoa, will set on a bowsprit traveller and a Colligo luff line furler. The Colligo furler has its own two part purchase block on the upper swivel. However, a two part purchase won't provide enough power to get 1200 lbs of tension on the jib luff. A properly sized self-tailing winch will be mounted on the port side of the mast to supplement the 2 to 1 purchase.
I will only have two jibs in my sail inventory, a yankee and a full working jib (110 genoa). The staysail will have one reef point. The main, staysail, genoa and yankee will be made from 7 oz clipper cloth. The two jibs will be white and the main and staysail cream colored. The drifter and the topsail will be cut from 4 oz light blue nylon.
Thursday, October 21, 2010
Keeping the Water on the Outside
There will be 8 below the waterline thru hull penetrations for two cockpit drains, engine cooling water, a speed and water depth transducer, galley sink drain, head sink drain, raw water intake ( to a manifold serving 3 washdown stations, the watermaker, and the AC/Heater) and the head discharge. All of the thru hulls except the trnasducer will be protected by 1 1/2 inch Spartan flanged seacocks.
A hose and/or seacock valve failure at any of these points could sink the boat. A hull breach as a result of a collision or an open or broken hatch or port hole in heavy weather are also threats to the vessel buoyancy. An effective bilge pump system might stem the flow of incoming water enough to buy time to effect repairs, send a mayday or launch a life raft. Day in and day out the bilge pump system will be charged with keeping the interior of the boat dry by removing any accumulation of casual water (a golf term?) in the bilge.
The BCC bilge is deepest ( and also narrowest) aft of the engine below the fuel tank. Further forward between the two water tanks the bilge is slightly shallower but accessible. With this in mind, Rose will be equipped with 3 bilge pumps, two electric submersibles and one manual diaphram pump.
The Rule 1100 is rated to 10 gallons per minute with 4 feet of head and will serve as the primary bilge pump. It's small enough to fit in the bottom of the bilge below the prop shaft and has an integral float switch and strainer. A larger Rule Model 3700 will serve as the secondary high water pump and will be situated between the two water tanks about 6 inches off bottom. The manual Whale Gusher 10 will be mounted on the lazerette side of the cockpit. Each of the three pumps will have its own discharge line with an in-line non-return valve.
So, assuming the engine is running, batteries are fully charged and a fresh crew member is manning the Whale Gusher, all three pumps working together will be able to remove about 45 gallons per minute. Finally, for cruising I will keep a spare Gusher with 6 feet of suction hose and a strum box, so if there's no power and manually pumping from the cockpit is not feasible........ pull the discharge hose off the Rule 3700 and connect it to this pump.
A hose and/or seacock valve failure at any of these points could sink the boat. A hull breach as a result of a collision or an open or broken hatch or port hole in heavy weather are also threats to the vessel buoyancy. An effective bilge pump system might stem the flow of incoming water enough to buy time to effect repairs, send a mayday or launch a life raft. Day in and day out the bilge pump system will be charged with keeping the interior of the boat dry by removing any accumulation of casual water (a golf term?) in the bilge.
The BCC bilge is deepest ( and also narrowest) aft of the engine below the fuel tank. Further forward between the two water tanks the bilge is slightly shallower but accessible. With this in mind, Rose will be equipped with 3 bilge pumps, two electric submersibles and one manual diaphram pump.
The Rule 1100 is rated to 10 gallons per minute with 4 feet of head and will serve as the primary bilge pump. It's small enough to fit in the bottom of the bilge below the prop shaft and has an integral float switch and strainer. A larger Rule Model 3700 will serve as the secondary high water pump and will be situated between the two water tanks about 6 inches off bottom. The manual Whale Gusher 10 will be mounted on the lazerette side of the cockpit. Each of the three pumps will have its own discharge line with an in-line non-return valve.
So, assuming the engine is running, batteries are fully charged and a fresh crew member is manning the Whale Gusher, all three pumps working together will be able to remove about 45 gallons per minute. Finally, for cruising I will keep a spare Gusher with 6 feet of suction hose and a strum box, so if there's no power and manually pumping from the cockpit is not feasible........ pull the discharge hose off the Rule 3700 and connect it to this pump.
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
Rose Photos
The re-designed, but not finished, anchor rollers are lighter (than the first design) but still attach to the gammoniron and stem of the boat not the bowsprit.
Twin 70 amp Nippon Denos alternators add to the engine dimensions but still fit nicely.
I think I will leave teak bulwarks natural.
Friday, October 8, 2010
Marine Sanitation - Keeping it Simple
The Lavac head will be mounted on the port side of the forward cabin space instead of directly in front of the sail locker per pre-Ike layout.
The new holding tank is larger at 13 gallons and relocated from where it was situated before Ike below the sail locker deck just forward of the head to high on the port side above the waterline in the same sail locker space. The holding tank is plumbed with 3 lines on the top, the inlet from the head, the deck pump-out tube and the vent line. There is no option (no Y valve) to flush direct overboard; the head flushes only to the holding tank. However, as allowed by law once the vessel is 3 miles or more offshore, the overboard discharge from the bottom of the holding tank plumbs straight down to the overboard discharge seacock next to the head on the port side.
As discussed in an earlier entry on this same topic this is a fresh water only flush system thus eliminating the need for a raw water intake and associated anti-siphon loop and vent valve. There is no anti-siphon/vent plumbing needed on the discharge side either because the holding tank is above the water line. And of course the gravity discharge means no macerator or discharge pump.
The new holding tank is larger at 13 gallons and relocated from where it was situated before Ike below the sail locker deck just forward of the head to high on the port side above the waterline in the same sail locker space. The holding tank is plumbed with 3 lines on the top, the inlet from the head, the deck pump-out tube and the vent line. There is no option (no Y valve) to flush direct overboard; the head flushes only to the holding tank. However, as allowed by law once the vessel is 3 miles or more offshore, the overboard discharge from the bottom of the holding tank plumbs straight down to the overboard discharge seacock next to the head on the port side.
As discussed in an earlier entry on this same topic this is a fresh water only flush system thus eliminating the need for a raw water intake and associated anti-siphon loop and vent valve. There is no anti-siphon/vent plumbing needed on the discharge side either because the holding tank is above the water line. And of course the gravity discharge means no macerator or discharge pump.
The Fresh Flush device provides one gallon per flush of non-pressurized fresh water and is the central component in the system. If the water maker konks out and fresh water conservation becomes an issue there is a salt water line in the compartment that can be used to fill the bowl. It can't get any simpler.
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
AC Wiring
Gary and his boys are getting after the re-wire project. I'd say 75% of ac and dc wire has been pulled to final destination points. The distribution panel is in as is the battery selector switch. The shore power outlet is installed on the starboard side of the house top at the sternmost end
The Mastervolt 2000/100 combi (inverter/charger) is also in place under the foot of the pilot berth on the starboard side. There is some question regarding the need for an external shore power/inverter selector switch. The Mastervolt documentation indicates that the inverter has an internal transfer switch for this pupose. There should be no need for another.
There is not that much to the AC side of this boat.....three AC outlets on one breaker, another on a separate breaker dedicated to the Contour 750 watt microwave, the 5000 BTU Climma air condtioner/heater, the Sonicview 17 inch computer monitor and the Allcraft 9 gallon water heater. Everthing with the exception of the water heater (including the air con) will run off the AC current provided by inverter.
There are two AC outlets from the inverter, the "Short Break" and the "Power". All appliances that can be powered from the inverter should be wired from the "Short Break" side; those that require shore power should be wired from the "Power" side. The water heater is the only appliance that has to run off shore power and should therefore be wired to the "Power" side; everything else goes on the "Short Break" side. Dip switches can be set to "generator support" or "power support" but not both. I will not have a generator so my preference is "Power support". ( I may carry a small honda generator but only as emergency backup to charge a dead engine start battery or run a drop light or two.)
Will post some photos later this week.
The Mastervolt 2000/100 combi (inverter/charger) is also in place under the foot of the pilot berth on the starboard side. There is some question regarding the need for an external shore power/inverter selector switch. The Mastervolt documentation indicates that the inverter has an internal transfer switch for this pupose. There should be no need for another.
There is not that much to the AC side of this boat.....three AC outlets on one breaker, another on a separate breaker dedicated to the Contour 750 watt microwave, the 5000 BTU Climma air condtioner/heater, the Sonicview 17 inch computer monitor and the Allcraft 9 gallon water heater. Everthing with the exception of the water heater (including the air con) will run off the AC current provided by inverter.
There are two AC outlets from the inverter, the "Short Break" and the "Power". All appliances that can be powered from the inverter should be wired from the "Short Break" side; those that require shore power should be wired from the "Power" side. The water heater is the only appliance that has to run off shore power and should therefore be wired to the "Power" side; everything else goes on the "Short Break" side. Dip switches can be set to "generator support" or "power support" but not both. I will not have a generator so my preference is "Power support". ( I may carry a small honda generator but only as emergency backup to charge a dead engine start battery or run a drop light or two.)
Will post some photos later this week.
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